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Destinations: St. Thomas

by Jamie Lawson

The island of St. Thomas is brimming with vivid color and lively culture. Surrounded by warm turquoise water, white sandy beaches, and lush plant life as far as the eye can see, this jewel of the Caribbean truly is a little piece of paradise. And with a pirate history that rivals legendary Tortuga, it's easy to lose yourself in a spirit of adventure.

St. Thomas, located about forty miles east of Puerto Rico, is part of the U.S. Virgin Islands. Spanning just thirty-two square miles, the island features breathtaking beaches, mouthwatering Caribbean cuisine, and a tranquil atmosphere. But the tiny island wasn't always so peaceful--in fact, it has quite a dramatic history.

Before Christopher Columbus arrived at Salt River in St. Croix in 1493, the Virgin Islands were inhabited by Indian tribes like the Arawaks, the Ciboney, and the warrior Caribs. But once Columbus claimed the islands for Spain, the area changed rapidly.

Historians believe Spanish settlers from Puerto Rico raided St. Thomas regularly. As native inhabitants fled, were forced into slavery, or died from the diseases brought by the Europeans, the Indian population nearly disappeared.

After being occupied by the Spanish, Dutch, British, French, and the Knights of Malta, St. Thomas was finally settled by the Danish West India Company in 1672. It remained under Danish rule until the U.S. purchased the island, as part of a cluster of more than fifty others, for $25 million in 1917. By doing so, the U.S. hoped to maintain control over the Panama Canal and the Caribbean during World War I.

In the late 1960s an LDS family--the Keeles--moved from the U.S. to St. Thomas. Earl and his wife, Celia, arrived in May 1969, and their children followed soon after. At that time, they were considered part of the San Juan Branch in Puerto Rico.

Church members James and Carolyn Boykin moved to the island in 1970. After meeting the couple, Debra Rybacki became the first person on the island to be baptized, joining the Church in January 1976. More LDS families came, and the St. Thomas Branch was created on December 13, 1977. The first LDS missionaries on the island, John Sorensen and Dean Blomquist, arrived in June 1978.

On January 12, 2004, while returning from the dedication of the Accra Ghana Temple, President Gordon B. Hinckley and Elder Russell M. Nelson made a brief stopover in St. Thomas, where a member meeting was held before they returned to Salt Lake City. President Hinckley was the first Church president to visit the Virgin Islands.

Today the Church grows there little by little, and the island continues to enchant visitors with its striking contrast of rugged mountains and pristine beaches. Read on to discover the travel treasures St. Thomas holds for all who choose to enter its shores.

Hit the Beach

With more than twenty beautiful beaches to choose from, you may not know which one to visit first. All are magnificent, but in a recent St. Thomas Beach Guide survey, Magens Bay, Sapphire Beach, Coki Beach, and Secret Harbor were among the most popular.

Sapphire Beach

This beach is perfect for lounging in the sun or feeding the ducks (or the well-loved iguanas for that matter), but it also has plenty of activities for the more adventurous soul. Rent a Jet Ski, go parasailing, or try your luck at windsurfing. And when you work up an appetite, you can grab a bite at Sapphire Beach Resort's Beach Bar.

Coki Beach

Located next to Coral World Marine Park, this beach promises some spectacular snorkeling since daily feedings attract a kaleidoscope of marine life. With just a short walk you can visit Coral World's restaurant and gift shops, but there are also several local vendors and snack bars to choose from.

Magens Bay

A visit to St. Thomas wouldn't be complete without a trip to famous Magens Bay. In fact, this beach is rated one of the top ten beaches in the world. (Read Four Places You Must See for more information.)

Secret Harbor

Secluded and peaceful, Secret Harbor is a great spot for rest and relaxation. Enjoy a leisurely meal at the restaurant overlooking the beach, rent some water toys, or go for a refreshing swim--because while the beaches on St. Thomas are luxurious, the ocean is equally inviting.

The water is warm (around 80º F year-round), calm, crystal clear, and filled with colorful fish and coral reefs--offering perfect conditions for snorkeling or scuba diving. Kayaking is also a favorite activity, especially at Mangrove Lagoon Wildlife Sanctuary and Marine Reserve. The area features exceptional views of jagged cliffs, sea grass beds, and an array of birds, including pelicans, herons, and egrets.

Shop till You Drop

In addition to sand and sea, St. Thomas is renowned for its shopping. Customs regulations were originally established under Danish rule, so you can find many high-quality items for much lower prices. For the best deals on the island, head to downtown Charlotte Amalie. This area along the waterfront is filled with countless shops, selling everything from fine jewelry to souvenir t-shirts, but you'll especially want to visit Royal Dane Mall.

This upscale mall is one of the oldest buildings in St. Thomas and is packed full of shops that sell local handicrafts, jewelry, antiques, and fine art. As a bonus, you'll also learn some history along the way as you read the bronze plaques describing expeditions of explorers, as well as the escapades of pirates who used these buildings to store their booty.

There are many historic landmarks within walking distance of the shopping district, including Fort Christian, the oldest standing structure in the Virgin Islands (dating back to the late 1600s--read to Four Places You Must See to learn more); Emancipation Park, which commemorates the emancipation of slaves in the Danish West Indies on July 3, 1848; and the Legislature Building--a lime-green structure built in 1828, and the site where the Danish transferred ownership of the islands to the U.S.

St. John: The Island Next Door

With just a twenty-minute ferry ride, you can also visit St. Thomas's sister island, stunning St. John. Two-thirds of the island is preserved as Virgin Islands National Park and serves as a refuge for a plethora of animal species and plant life. Twenty nature trails wind through tropical forest, beaches, and ruins of sugar plantations, and there is even a trail that guides you to mysterious petroglyphs.

The national park also offers plenty of swimming, snorkeling, and kayaking at several beaches. The most well-known beach, Trunk Bay, features an underwater snorkel trail with signs to educate snorkelers about fish, reefs, and other aspects of ocean life. Trunk Bay also has showers, changing areas, restrooms, picnic tables, barbeques, a covered pavilion, a gift shop, and a snack bar.

While Trunk Bay is the most popular spot among St. John tourists, Hawksnest Beach and Cinnamon Bay are also fantastic options. Hawksnest is kid friendly and close to downtown Cruz Bay, where the ferries arrive. In addition to a beach, Cinnamon Bay has campgrounds, nature trails, and an archaeological excavation of a Taino Indian ceremonial site.

To catch a ferry to St. John, go to Red Hook, on the eastern end of St. Thomas. The Red Hook ferry runs on the hour from 6:00 A.M. to 11:00 P.M., and you can bring your rental car aboard to drive once you get to St. John. Caution: people in the Virgin Islands drive on the left side of the road.

Four Places You Must See

The island of St. Thomas is overflowing with pristine beaches, colorful wildlife, fascinating history, and stunning views. With a visit to these four places, you'll enjoy the best of each.

Magens Bay

Named one of the world's most beautiful beaches by both National Geographic and Conde Nast Traveler, this heart-shaped bay is a must-see. With life guards on duty most of the time and extremely calm water, Magens Bay is ideal for swimming with the kids. Plus, it offers the convenience of freshwater showers, lockers, parking, and restaurants (which is why there is a small entrance fee for this beach). Note: the bay is located on the Atlantic side of the island, and fish are scarce (there are much better locations for snorkeling).

Coral World Marine Park & Observatory

Coral World Marine Park & Observatory is located on the island's northeast shore at Coki Point. The park features an underwater observatory tower, an 80,000 gallon coral reef tank, a marine gardens aquarium, and a children's touch pool filled with star fish, sea cucumbers, sting rays, and other fascinating creatures.

While the park provides great views of all sorts of marine life, there are also many opportunities for close encounters. Swim with the sea turtles (you must be at least 4 feet 8 inches tall), sea lions (children must weight at least 50 pounds), or--for the especially courageous--sharks (again, you must be 4 feet 8 inches tall). You can also visit the Lorikeet Garden to hand-feed the colorful birds. Or, just check the feeding schedule for another way to get close to the animals.

For underwater adventures, try the Sea Trek, where you take a walk on the ocean floor with special helmets that allow you to breathe normally. You can also opt for a Snuba adventure (perfect for those not quite ready for scuba diving). Coral World is open daily from 9 A.M. to 5 P.M.

Fort Christian

The oldest standing structure in the Virgin Islands, Fort Christian has been in continuous use since 1672. This National Historic Landmark was originally built to protect the island residents from attack, but the building has also been used as a governor's residence, church, jail, and police station. Today it is home to the Virgin Islands Museum.

The museum (which is located in what used to be the dungeon) features relics from the ancient natives, island memorabilia up to present day, handmade West Indian furnishings, and a natural history display. Open 8:30 A.M. to 4:30 P.M. Monday through Friday.

Paradise Point

Hop aboard the St. Thomas Skyride where you'll be whisked 700 feet above the town of Charlotte Amalie to Paradise Point. Here you'll enjoy one of the most spectacular views in the Caribbean, but there is plenty more to do while you're here. Walk the nature trail, grab a bite to eat, or catch an exotic bird show. You may also want to stop by The Pirate's Chest for a souvenir t-shirt, or even an authentic sunken treasure coin. Visit paradisepointtramway.com/schedule for Skyride hours of operation.

TIMELINE

A History of the Church in St. Thomas

1976

Debra Rybacki is baptized. She is the first person to join the Church in the Virgin Islands.

1977

The St. Thomas Branch is created on December 13.

1978

The first missionaries, John Sorensen and Dean Blomquist, arrive.

2000

The island has two branches and 289 members.

2001

Joseph W. Hodge becomes the first local branch president on October 21.

2002

Church membership reaches 427.

2004

President Gordon B. Hinckley and Elder Russell M. Nelson make a brief stop in St. Thomas on January 12, marking the first time a president of the Church has visited the island.

Some interesting history . . .

Pirate Lore

St. Thomas is famous for its pirate lore, including fascinating stories of two women--Anne Bonny and Mary Read--who disguised themselves as men to join Calico Jack Rackham's crew aboard his ship, The Revenge. But the two most infamous swashbucklers from the island's history are Blackbeard the Pirate (Edward Teach) and Bluebeard the Pirate (Eduard de Barbe-Bleu). Each has a castle tower that bears his name.

Blackbeard's Castle

Blackbeard's Castle, originally named Skytsborg Tower, was built in 1679 by the Danes and is one of only four national historic sites in the U.S. Virgin Islands. It is unclear when the tower became known as Blackbeard's Castle, but a pirate by that name did sail the area in the early 1700s in his ship, The Queen Anne's Revenge. In fact, Blackbeard's skirmishes with English ships are well documented and include several encounters along the eastern coast of the U.S., as well as throughout the Virgin Islands.

Bluebeard's Castle

Eduard de Barbe-Bleu, a.k.a. Bluebeard the Pirate, was infamous for having many wives, including a woman known as a Spanish witch. Local legend says that Bluebeard built a stone tower for one of his wives (whom he later killed for being unfaithful); however, it was actually a Danish tower called Frederik's Fort, built in 1689. Eventually legend overshadowed truth and the structure became known as Bluebeard's Castle. Today it is surrounded by Bluebeard's Castle Resort, which boasts two world-class restaurants and a dazzling view of the harbor.